Tag Archive | lip definition tips

Lip Makeup Series – Balanced Lips

If you are lucky enough to have balanced lips (see illustration), your make-up application on this area will be relatively easy. If your top and bottom lips are in proportion with neither lip thinner than the other, you have balanced lips. Balanced lips will become thinner over time due to the breakdown of collagen, elastin and fat during the ageing process. Due to the initial plumpness of this lip shape, the thinning process will not be as pronounced in comparison to other lip shapes.

Balanced Lips Image

To apply make-up to balanced lips, you will need a lipstick in the colour of your choice, a good quality lip pencil in a matching or slightly darker colour to the lipstick, a crème highlighter in a cream / beige colour or a few shades lighter than the colour of your skin, a lip brush or lipstick applicator, a fine artist’s paintbrush or make-up brush and a mirror. The crème highlighter is optional but will give your lips a youthful appearance if desired. The use of a lip pencil is essential to this technique and provides definition. Lip pencils also contain wax which prevents the lipstick bleeding or smudging onto your facial foundation makeup.

Method (see illustration below):

Balanced Lips Makeup Application Image

1) Draw around the shape of the lips with a freshly sharpened  lip pencil, taking care to stay on the edge of the lips. Using a blunt pencil will result in the line being too thick. It helps if you start from the centre of the bow on the top lip then extend the lines out to each side.  Similarly, start the line at the centre of the lower lip and extend to each side. It is important not to draw the line above or below the edge of the lips as this will distort the balanced shape. Check in the mirror to make sure that you are happy with the pencil line that you have drawn. You can always redraw the pencil line if you feel you need more colour and definition.

2) Fill in the top and bottom lip areas with your lipstick, taking care to work the colour in well with the lip brush or applicator. Place a soft tissue between your lips and close your lips to lightly blot excess lipstick. Depending on the type of lipstick you are using, you may wish to apply a second coat.

3) Taking the fine artist’s paintbrush or make-up brush, coat  the tip of the brush with the crème highlighter in cream / beige colour or a colour a few shades lighter than your skin. Paint a fine, even line around the edge of the lip pencil line you have drawn. The aim here is to avoid painting the highlighter over the lip pencil line. You are simply applying subtle highlighting around the lip line. Finish if desired by placing a dot of highlighter on the area between the centre of your upper lip and your nose. To blend the highlighting, simply pat gently with the pad of your little finger, taking care not to smudge your work. The heat from your finger will help the highlighter to set on your skin.

4) Depending on the type of lipstick you are using, you may wish to set your lip makeup. You can do this with translucent, loose face powder. Dip a powder brush into the face powder , tap the brush then swirl it over the back (not palm) of the opposite hand to that which you are using to apply your make-up This will remove excess powder. Using the back of your hand as an artist’s palette when you are working is a good habit to get into. This will ensure a light touch and professional application. Gently swirl the brush over the surface of your lips. Do not press the brush on the lips as you will disturb your work. Only a tiny amount of powder is needed to set the make-up. Alternatively, there are clear lipstick setting sprays available on the market but remember to patch test on your skin before using any new product.

Luscious lips – lip enhancement technique

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Young people often have an almost imperceptible white line around their lips. The reason for this is that their lips are at an optimal stage of development – full and plump with naturally occurring collagen and elastin. The blood supply gravitates to the fullness of the  lips and leaves a white line as the blood recedes. This youthful appearance to the lips can be enhanced or replicated with a simple make-up technique. Outline the lips with a lip pencil or liner that matches or coordinates with your lipstick. Draw this line in a fine or medium stroke. Using a lip brush, fine paintbrush or the sponge applicator of a liquid lipstick, work the lipstick colour into your lips inside the outline. Many people do not take the time to work the lipstick into their lips and wonder why their lipstick rubs off so quickly. It is worth the extra effort to achieve a beautiful result that should last for hours.  Place a tissue between your lips and press lips lightly together to blot off any excess. if necessary, touch up and/or apply another coat. Blot and touch up again if a second coat of lipstick is applied. Allow lipstick a minute or two to set. Take a fresh, clean lip brush or fine paintbrush and coat with concealer, crème eyeshadow or foundation. The colour you choose will depend on your complexion. Ivory, cream or light beige will work for those with fair to medium complexions. People with olive or deeper complexions will need to choose a colour that is a few shades lighter than their foundation. It is a matter of experimentation to find which colours will work best for this technique. Carefully paint a fine line outside the lip pencil outline previously applied. Gently pat (blend) into place with a cosmetic sponge, taking care not to remove the highlighting line you have drawn. Fine, loose cosmetic powder can then be used with a powder brush to set the lipstick and highlighting. The correct application of loose setting powder will be covered in a future post. Remember to check your lipstick application in various lighting settings as you may need to slightly change the colour of your highlighter. This subtle technique is perfect for looking your best in photographs.